Every suspension parameter in GT7 is interconnected. Changing body height affects natural frequency, which changes how damping ratios feel. Approach suspension as a system, not a collection of isolated sliders. This guide covers each parameter in the order you should think about them, from the foundation up.
If you want a broader overview that includes differential, aero, brakes, and gearing, read our complete GT7 tuning guide first. This guide goes deeper on suspension specifically.
Body Height Adjustment (mm)
Body Height Adjustment is your starting point. It controls the ride height of the car in millimetres and has cascading effects on every other suspension parameter. Lower body height drops the centre of gravity, which increases mechanical grip through corners and reduces body roll. The trade-off is ground clearance — go too low and the car bottoms out over crests and kerbs, causing sudden grip loss.
The Rake Concept
Setting the front slightly lower than the rear (5–10mm difference) creates a mild rake angle. This shifts the aerodynamic centre of pressure forward, promoting front-end turn-in and adding rear stability. Most competitive setups run some degree of rake.
If the car feels nervous on corner entry, you have too much rake. Raise the front or lower the rear to balance it. If the car understeers on entry, increase the rake slightly.
Starting Values
- Road cars / comfort tires: 100–130mm. Leave extra clearance — these cars have more body roll, so the suspension travels further.
- Gr.4 cars: 90–105mm. These production-based racers can go lower than road cars but still need clearance for kerbs.
- Gr.3 / Gr.1 cars: 80–95mm. Purpose-built race cars with stiff springs can handle lower heights without bottoming out.
Track-Specific Adjustments
On circuits with heavy kerb use — Suzuka, Nürburgring Nordschleife, Bathurst — add 5–10mm of extra clearance compared to a smooth track like Monza or Lago Maggiore. Bottoming out mid-corner is worse than the tiny grip gain from running lower.
Tracks with significant elevation change (Mount Panorama, Brands Hatch) also benefit from extra clearance because the car compresses heavily on crests and compressions.
Natural Frequency (Hz)
Natural Frequency is GT7’s way of expressing spring stiffness. Rather than showing a raw spring rate in N/mm, the game calculates the natural oscillation frequency of the sprung mass — a value in hertz that accounts for both the spring rate and the car’s weight over that corner. Higher Hz means stiffer springs.
This is the most important suspension parameter for overall grip. Get it wrong and everything else (damping, camber, toe) is fighting an uphill battle.
The Tire Compound Rule
The ideal natural frequency depends primarily on tire compound. Softer compounds generate grip through deformation, so they need softer springs to let the tire work. Stiffer compounds transfer load faster, so they need stiffer springs to control weight transfer.
- Comfort tires: F 1.60 / R 1.80 Hz — soft enough to let the tire deform and generate heat gradually
- Sport tires: F 2.30 / R 2.50 Hz — the workhorse range for most online lobbies
- Racing tires (soft/medium/hard): F 3.00–3.30 / R 3.20–3.50 Hz — stiff enough to control the faster weight transfer from stiff sidewalls
Front vs. Rear Balance
The rear should always be slightly higher than the front (0.10–0.20 Hz difference). This prevents the rear from becoming too compliant under acceleration, which would cause the rear tyres to slide before the fronts. If the car understeers on exit, raise the rear frequency by 0.10 Hz while keeping the front the same.
If the car oversteers on corner entry, soften the rear by 0.10 Hz. If it understeers on entry, stiffen the front by 0.10 Hz. Adjust in small increments — 0.10 Hz changes are significant.
Weight and Category Adjustments
Because natural frequency accounts for weight, a 1000kg Gr.4 car and a 1300kg Gr.3 car can run the same Hz value even though the raw spring rates are different. This is the beauty of the Hz system — the values are directly comparable across cars.
Damping Ratio (%)
Damping controls how quickly the springs return to their resting position after being compressed or extended. GT7 splits this into Compression (bump) and Expansion (rebound) percentages for both front and rear.
Compression (Bump)
Higher compression damping resists the suspension being pushed in. This means less nose dive under braking, less body roll initiation on corner entry, and a more planted feel over smooth tarmac. The cost is reduced compliance — the car skips and bounces over bumps rather than absorbing them.
Starting point: 55–65% on sport tires, 60–70% on racing tires. Drop 5–10% on bumpy tracks like Bathurst, Nürburgring, or any street circuit.
Expansion (Rebound)
Higher expansion damping resists the suspension extending. This means less squat under acceleration, smoother weight transfer when unloading a corner, and a more composed feel during transitions. It is usually set equal to or slightly higher than compression.
Starting point: 60–70% on sport tires. A common baseline is 60% compression / 65% expansion. This slight offset helps the car settle faster after bumps.
The 80% Rule
Be cautious above 80% on either axis. Very high damping makes the car feel planted on glass-smooth tarmac, but it struggles on any track with surface changes, kerbs, or elevation. The suspension simply cannot react quickly enough. For most situations, staying in the 55–70% range gives the best balance of control and compliance.
Front vs. Rear
Running stiffer front damping than rear makes the car more stable under braking (less nose dive) but can cause understeer on corner entry. Stiffer rear damping makes corner exit more predictable but can make the rear feel loose on turn-in. Start with equal front/rear values and adjust from there.
Negative Camber Angle (°)
Camber describes the tilt of the wheel relative to the road surface when viewed from the front. In GT7, “Negative Camber Angle” is expressed as a positive number — so 2.0° in the settings screen means −2.0° of real-world camber, where the top of the tyre leans inward.
How Camber Affects Grip
More negative camber keeps the tyre’s contact patch flat against the road during cornering. When a car rolls through a corner, the outside tyre tilts outward — negative camber pre-compensates for this, maximising the contact patch when it matters most.
However, too much camber reduces the contact patch on straights. This hurts acceleration traction, braking distance, and straight-line stability. It also accelerates inside-edge tire wear.
Starting Values by Drivetrain
- FR / MR: Front 1.5–3.0°, Rear 1.0–2.0°. The fronts need more camber because they handle the steering load.
- FF: Front up to 3.5° (the fronts do everything), Rear 1.0–1.5°.
- 4WD: Front 1.5–2.5°, Rear 1.5–2.5°. More symmetric since all four wheels share driving forces.
- RR: Front 1.5–2.5°, Rear 0.5–1.5°. Keep the rear conservative — the rear-biased weight already loads those tyres heavily.
Reading Tire Wear
GT7’s tyre wear indicator tells you if camber is correct. If the inside edge wears faster than the outside, you have too much camber — reduce by 0.5° increments. If the outside edge wears faster, you need more camber. Even wear across the tread means the setting is optimal for that track.
Toe Angle (°)
Toe controls whether the wheels point slightly inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out) when viewed from above. It is the most subtle suspension parameter but has a meaningful effect on turn-in response, straight-line stability, and tire temperature.
Front Toe
Toe-out improves turn-in response. The inside wheel is already angled into the corner, so the car reacts more sharply to steering input. Most competitive setups run front toe-out.
Toe-in stabilises the car on straights and under braking but dulls initial turn-in. Useful for high-speed circuits where stability matters more than corner entry sharpness.
Starting value: 0.15–0.30° out for most race cars.
Rear Toe
Rear toe-in is almost always desirable. It creates a self-correcting force that stabilises the rear under cornering and braking — the wheels naturally resist stepping out. Too much rear toe-in creates drag and makes the car feel sluggish on straights.
Starting value: 0.10–0.20° in for most cars.
Tire Temperature and Wear
Toe generates heat because the wheels are constantly fighting their alignment. This can be useful on tire-warming laps but is detrimental to tire life over a long race. For endurance events, keep toe values as close to zero as possible while retaining acceptable handling. For sprint races, you can push toe-out higher for more aggressive turn-in.
Anti-Roll Bars (Lv. 1–10)
The anti-roll bar (sway bar) connects the left and right suspension on the same axle and resists body roll. GT7 uses a 1–10 scale where higher numbers mean a stiffer bar and less roll.
The Balance Tool
Anti-roll bars are your primary tool for adjusting handling balance without changing overall grip level. The key insight is that relative stiffness between front and rear determines balance:
- Stiffer front ARB → promotes oversteer. The front tires share more load between inside and outside, reducing total front grip relative to the rear.
- Stiffer rear ARB → promotes understeer. The rear tires share more load, reducing total rear grip relative to the front.
Starting Values
- Gr.3 / Gr.1: Front 5–7, Rear 4–6. These cars have enough chassis stiffness and aero to handle aggressive bars.
- Gr.4: Front 4–6, Rear 3–5. Slightly softer since these production-based cars have less aerodynamic grip to compensate.
- Road cars / comfort tires: Front 2–4, Rear 2–3. Soft tires need compliant bars to avoid overloading the contact patch.
Quick Diagnostic
Understeer on corner entry? Soften the front ARB by 1–2 levels, or stiffen the rear. Oversteer on corner entry? Do the opposite. ARB changes are fast to test in-game, so use them as your first adjustment tool before touching springs or dampers. The differential also plays a role in mid-corner and exit balance.
Starting Values by Category
Use these as baselines. Every car is different, but these ranges get you in the right neighbourhood for each class.